How to solder: the basics that actually matter
A practical introduction to through-hole soldering from an electronics lab: iron temperature, tips, flux, technique and how to recognise good and bad joints.
Why most soldering goes wrong
Solder is not glue. It only bonds when both surfaces, the pad and the component lead, are hot enough for the molten tin to wet them and form an alloy layer. Melting solder on the tip and dropping it onto a cold joint gives a blob that looks connected and is not. Almost every bad joint comes from that one mistake.
Set up the iron
- Temperature: 320 to 350 °C for leaded solder, 350 to 380 °C for lead-free. Hotter burns the flux before it works and can lift pads.
- Tip: use the largest tip that fits the pad. A 2 mm chisel covers most through-hole work. A fine conical tip transfers heat badly; beginners pick it and struggle.
- Tin the tip: a clean, shiny, tinned tip transfers heat. Wipe it on brass wool and add a little fresh solder before each joint.
The technique
- Clean the tip and add a small drop of solder to it. That drop is a heat bridge, not the joint.
- Touch the tip to the pad and the lead at the same time.
- After one to two seconds, feed solder into the joint from the opposite side. It should flow around the lead by itself.
- Remove the solder wire, then the iron. Total time: three to four seconds.
- Do not move anything for two seconds while the joint solidifies.
- Cut the lead just above the joint with a flush cutter.
Read the joint
A good through-hole joint is shiny (dull is normal for lead-free), concave like a small volcano, and you can see the outline of the lead. A ball sitting on the pad, a dull grainy surface or solder that does not reach the edge of the pad means the joint did not wet: add flux and reheat.
Flux is the secret
The flux inside the solder wire burns off in a couple of seconds. When a joint needs rework, add fresh flux from a pen. Most problems beginners blame on the iron are a lack of flux. Clean the residue afterwards with isopropyl alcohol and a brush if it is sticky.
Common mistakes
- Carrying solder to the joint on the tip.
- Iron too hot, tip too small.
- Moving the part before the solder solidifies.
- Reheating the same joint again and again without adding flux.
- Pressing hard with the iron. Pressure does not transfer heat; contact area does.
Stop if a pad lifts from the board, if a joint on a large copper area will not melt even with a big tip, or if the board has components that got hot enough to discolour. Those need rework tools and experience; forcing them damages the board.
Kit list
| Item | What to look for | Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature-controlled soldering iron | Adjustable 200 to 450 °C, 60 W or more, fast heat-up, replaceable tips. The single most important tool. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Spare tips for your iron | A 2 mm chisel for general work and a 1 mm conical or small chisel for fine pads. They must match your iron model. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Leaded solder wire, 0.5 to 0.8 mm | Sn63/Pb37 or Sn60/Pb40 with flux core. Easiest to use; for repairs and prototypes, not for products sold in the EU. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| No-clean flux pen | Makes solder flow and wet properly. The difference between a struggle and a clean joint. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Brass-wool tip cleaner | Cleans the tip without cooling it. Better than a wet sponge. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Silicone work mat | Heat-resistant surface that protects the table and keeps small parts in place. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Fume extractor | Carbon-filter fan that pulls flux smoke away from your face. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Safety glasses | Solder and clipped leads can flick into eyes. Wear them. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Flush cutter | Cuts leads flush to the joint without stressing it. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Helping hands or PCB holder | Holds the board and the wire so both of your hands are free. | View on Amazon ↗ |
| Magnifier or USB microscope | To inspect joints. Most bad joints look fine to the naked eye. | View on Amazon ↗ |
Links go to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you. We only list tools of the kind we use on our own bench.
Send us what you have. We tell you what it takes to finish it.
Answer five questions and see an indicative budget in two minutes. When you are ready, sign our NDA, upload your documentation and get a fixed quote. Everything by e-mail, with a call whenever you prefer.